The history of Riverhead is reflected in this fascinating trip up the top arm of the Waitematā Harbour, as Roger Mills discovered.
Our family group of four were lucky to be given a perfect winter’s day for our outing – windless, clear and sunny. We joined our Red Boats Ferry at Z Pier in Westhaven and as all passengers had arrived in good time, we left slightly before our 10.45am scheduled departure.
Two ferries operate this route, the Red Boats and the Riverhead Ferry, sailing times being dependent upon the tide.
Riverhead was a railway starting point in the 19th century. The rail line operated from 1875 to 1881 as a link from Auckland to regions north, with Riverhead acting as the transition point from ferry to railway.
With the established need for accommodation at this important junction, Thomas William Deacon established the Riverhead Tavern in 1857. Now at over 160 years old, ‘The Riverhead’ is thought to be New Zealand’s oldest riverside tavern and now makes a great day destination.
As we wended our way around the numerous tight bends on the trip up, our Red Boats Ferry captain regaled us with early tales and pointed out historic sites. We hear about the Kauri Point Naval Armaments Depot, comfortably located so that if it blows up Auckland City is sheltered from the explosion; Hobsonville Point, now home to a thriving new suburb; Lucas Creek, the original gateway to Albany and home of Salthouse Boatbuilders; the Paremoremo Creek arm leading to Auckland’s high security prison; the skeletal remains of the wreck Hawera and many more.
We pass the cruising yacht Tamariki moored at the head of Lucas Creek where my friend Peter Mortimer is busy onboard installing a new heater. It’s a perfect day for boat chores.
Many well-known yachts and launches tucked along the banks of the shore reflect in the glassy-calm conditions.
With my appetite growing, we gently approach the Riverhead Tavern dock and the skipper expertly executes a 360-degree turn using the bow-in-the-bank technique to manoeuvre in a very width restricted channel.
Booking a table is recommended: we are greeted by the tavern staff and shown to our table inside in the warm landing.
While this is not a restaurant review, our group was well satisfied with the food range and quality, as well as the setting, which is hard to beat.
People continued to arrive, utilising a variety of craft: canoes, jet-skis, runabouts, inflatables – you name it!
Too soon our ferry departs and we are off back down the river, this time without the commentary as we just take in the beautiful passing scenery.
The Riverhead Ferry catches us up on the Red Boat and a brief speed tussle ensues – alas the green boat is faster and arrives at the dock a few minutes before us.
If you get the chance, I highly recommend this day trip – take some friends and enjoy our history and the beautiful views on our back door.
